Manufacturing commercial collars, furs, plates, tailoring, womens fur hats
The S-bend corset was fashionable during the s. It thrust the hips backwards and forced the chest forward into a fashionable pouter-pigeon shape, emphasised with puffed, frilly blouses that were often embellished with decorations like lace collars and broad ribbon ties. Separates were popular, with skirts fitted over the hip and fluted towards the hem. Hair was worn in a centre parting, often looped around pads and false hair to create a wide 'brim' of hair around the hairline. This hairstyle was worn under vast, broad-brim hats with low crowns, and adorned all over with flowers, lace, ribbons and feathers.VIDEO ON THE TOPIC: Fur Hats made in USA
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Astrakhan also spelled astrachan is, properly speaking, the tightly curled fleece of the fetal or newborn karakul also spelled caracul lamb. Less accurately, it can also refer to the fleece of fetal or newborn lambs from other species, or a knitted or woven fabric that imitates the looped surface.
Astrakhan has a distinctive tight, whorled, loopy surface with a slight sheen. The younger the lamb, the tighter and shinier the loops. True astrakhan comes in a range of colours from pale golden yellow to black, though black is the most desirable. Yes, the most desirable form of astrakhan is that from a lamb days away from being born , and it is sourced by killing both the ewe and the unborn lamb. The last two options, stillborn lambs and ones that died within their first few days, are probably how astrakhan first became used: peasants sought to wring any value that they could from a dead animal.
The sheep are from the high mountainous regions in Central Asia, an area with very severe and unpredictable weather which would easily contribute to a high lamb die-off. There is no standard as to whether most of the names should be capitalized or not. The name used for astrakhan can differentiate between how the fur is sourced newborn vs. Fur Products Labeling Act 16 C. The use of astrakhan dates back centuries in Central Asia and the Middle East, where it was used in traditional garments and gave its name to the Karkul hat.
Bowl featuring a man wearing an astrakhan hat, ca. Astrakhan has always been a luxurious fur: far more pricey than most sheepskins. When the Shah of Persia was crowned in they used an astrakhan hat when the official crown was too heavy, and a few years later Warren G.
Hand-coloured etching on paper. Paul, Minn. Season Astrakhan was universally popular for the first half of the beginning of the 20th century. It was popular again at the end of the s , and then again throughout the s , where it particularly appeared in hats, the new trend for sport wear, and the Russian military-inspired fashions , particularly paired with the Cossack hat.
A very new caped coat in black cloth, velvet, or crepe, with shawl collar and cuffs of black astrakhan. Evening Post, 1 December To the best of my knowledge the Libyan sheep are the only ones that are still being farmed commercially. A article explains how the mother and baby are both killed to source the fur, but claims that as the meat is eaten, it is not inhumane. Unfortunately it appears that today most commercial astrakhan is raised and killed almost exclusively for the fur. The whole concept is too awful and inhumane.
London: Thames and Hudson Ltd. Aha, thank you so much for clearing up my murky understandings. But of course when a demand is created then what once naturally occurred becomes forced, and that is where cruelty takes over from pragmatism. Quite striking! I had not heard of this before and just wow.
I agree with MrsC above- its the whole kill mother and baby aspect. The whole natural causes thing is interesting. I work in dairy cow research, and I know that late calvers in dairy herds are often induced as are overdue women.
From a purely financial point of view I would assume it more efficient to induce pre-term lambs for broadtail and keep the mother alive — she can then resume oestrus cycles and be impregnated again. I have known about slinkskin for as long as I can remember — my mother has a pair of chocolate brown slinkskin gloves — suede on the outside and slink on the inside which are just gorgeous.
I think perhaps the demand at least in times since induction of labour has become commonplace has not been high enough.
There is also the aim of keeping something rare and therefore expensive which makes large supply undesirable. Thank goodness!!!!!
Fashion is really weird and awful sometimes! I love it. I can eat an adult cow but can bring myself to eat veal. It feels abusive…absurd! They kill alpacas as a general rule to use their fur. She brushes them and spins that into yarn…. In New Zealand it is remotely possible that alpacas might be killed for their skins though I have never heard of it — the animals are much too valuable!
Undignified as a process, but not damaging. If you are in NZ, buying alpaca fibre is just fine. And very lovely fibre it is, too. I help out fairly often with some NZ alpaca breeders. They do kill alpaca for the meat, so it may be that some alpaca wool is sourced from the meat animals, but its not the main production method by any means.
Oh, goodness. So bad, and so ugly! Some things are dubious on their own, but should never be combined! I was wondering how much is it worth and were is the best place to sell it jean williams I have worked as a clothing appraiser previously for consignment stores and bridal boutiques in the Midwest.
Having said that, were I you, I might think about placing the piece in a consignment store, where you have some input as to the pricing of the item. Should there be no consignment store in your area, do an Internet search for a Furrier and perhaps see if they can assist you in appraising, or maybe even reselling the item. Good luck! Does anyone know the connection between this place and the hat?
There is no connection, except the name. Thanks so much for this information. I have a few vintage coats made of black knobby fabric of varying quality. It is so nice to learn about what it might be or, more likely, what it was modeled after. And fascinating to get a history. I look forward to reading more on your site. Keep up the great work! I have a vintage coat that belonged to a very special lady who passed away at I have been told it astrachan fur collared white with a tinge of light brown and can only be cleaned by a furrier.
Would love to know more if any one can help. Thanks so much for the info! I put a link to your page on my shop since you did all the research. Thank you for the amazing lowdown on astrakhan. However, if the skins of naturally deceased lambs were used — then credit needs to go to those who used their initiative and utilised what they had at that point in time in order to make their meagre lives more bearable…..
I sought out information because I have a lovely mink and astrakhan jacket I acquired from my Grandmother when she passed on, and I am wanting to sell it. Do you have any suggestions as to what the best avenue is to seek a sale?
Many thanks Sue Carlyon. Have anything else to add? Find an article interesting? Have anything to contribute other than a handslap? I found this site because I was following up on the wide astrakhan collars on luxury coats for men. They show in illustrations from I think s and photographs through to about The long black overcoat with the distinctive collar became a common feature used in cartoons to show a very rich man along with top hats or a big cigars.
For instance in Germany many of the post First War depictions of the hated industrialists and profiteers that were published show men so dressed.
I knew about the source, fetal or neo-natal used for hats when I worked in Eastern Iran. However I needed to provide some kind of independent reference for clarity and proof.
Thank you for the information. Thanks so much for this wealth of information! I have linked your article to a blog post of mine regarding a vintage astrakhan cape I purchased. After reading your article I desperately hope my cape is faux astrakhan! The Victorians loved Astrakhan.
Its dark, heavy, glossy, ornate surface fitted perfectly with ornate aesthetic in the late s and 70s, and the heavy, fashions at the end of the 19th century. In the s the notorious Countess de Castiglione posed for a whole series of photographs in a paletot covered in astrakhan. Astrakhan and possom fur coat, s. MrsC says. Amanda says. Lynne says. I really, really like that ruched silk evening cape! So smart and so wearable!
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Series I. Fashion Prints and Ephemera small size approximately bulk Scope and Content. Cuffs, Collars, Gloves, etc. Jewelry and Watches, A-K by company 8 x 10 inches or smaller in size.
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Astrakhan also spelled astrachan is, properly speaking, the tightly curled fleece of the fetal or newborn karakul also spelled caracul lamb. Less accurately, it can also refer to the fleece of fetal or newborn lambs from other species, or a knitted or woven fabric that imitates the looped surface. Astrakhan has a distinctive tight, whorled, loopy surface with a slight sheen. The younger the lamb, the tighter and shinier the loops. True astrakhan comes in a range of colours from pale golden yellow to black, though black is the most desirable.
Posted by Harper Franklin Last updated Aug 1, Published on Aug 1, , 19th century , decade overview. The s were a transitional decade from the stiff Victorian Era to a new century. T he s were a period of change. As the century drew to a close, the world began to move away from the stiff, moralistic, Victorian Era Laver
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Tailoring is the art of designing, cutting, fitting, and finishing clothes. The word tailor comes from the French tailler , to cut, and appears in the English language during the fourteenth century. In Latin, the word for tailor was sartor , meaning patcher or mender, hence the English "sartorial," or relating to the tailor, tailoring, or tailored clothing. The term bespoke, or custom, tailoring describes garments made to measure for a specific client. Bespoke tailoring signals that these items are already "spoken for" rather than made on speculation. As a craft, tailoring dates back to the early Middle Ages, when tailors' guilds were established in major European towns.
Terminology: What is astrakhan?
General building contractors who combine a special trade with the contracting are included in this major group. Specialized activities that are covered here include grading for highways and airport runways; guardrail construction; installation of highway signs; trenching; underwater rock removal; and asphalt and concrete construction of roads, highways, streets and public sidewalks. Establishments primarily engaged in specialized activities that may be performed on buildings or on other heavy construction projects are classified in Major Group These include contractors primarily engaged in painting including bridge painting and traffic lane painting , electrical work including work on bridges, power lines, and power plants , and carpentry work. These activities include painting including bridge painting and traffic lane painting , electrical work including work on bridges, power lines, and power plants , carpentry work, plumbing, heating, air-conditioning, roofing, and sheet metal work. Special trade contractors primarily engaged in activities that are clearly of a type specialized to heavy construction, such as grading for highways and airport runways; guardrail construction; installation of highway signs; underwater rock removal; and asphalt and concrete construction of roads, highways, streets, and public sidewalks are classified in Major Group Special trade contractors may work on subcontract from the general contractor, performing only part of the work covered by the general contract, or they may work directly for the owner.
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Terminology: What is astrakhan?
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Ричард насчитал двадцать шесть человек, у троих были винтовки, двое вглядывались во тьму с помощью биноклей. Как и планировалось, Элли, Никки и Арчи спустились на землю, когда до лагеря оставалось около двухсот метров. Отослав страусозавра в Изумрудный город, все четверо направились к солдатам.
Никки не хотела просыпаться; сперва она жаловалась, но потом утихла, ощутив, что мать очень серьезно просит ее умолкнуть.
Он не позволяет заранее определить исход крупномасштабных процессов.
Я знаю, - ответила Николь. - Но ситуация чрезвычайная. Я хочу переговорить с Верховным Оптимизатором, и мне бы хотелось, чтобы ты проводила. - Глубокой ночью. - Я не знаю, сколько времени у нас осталось.
Но вчера удирала от них куда быстрее. - Да, - задумчиво ответила Николь. - Признаюсь, я была в ужасе. И мои животные инстинкты повелевали бежать, но сегодня я разочарована. Мы, люди, считаем, что разум способен одолеть инстинкты. тем более при нашем с тобой опыте. После всего, что мы видели на Раме и в Узле, следовало бы приобрести иммунитет к ксенофобии.
Его жена оставалась среди людей, безуспешно пытаясь пробудить в них совесть. Через несколько месяцев ее заключили в тюрьму, обвинили в предательстве и вынесли смертный приговор. Условия и уровень жизни внутри Нового Эдема продолжали ухудшаться, поэтому люди захватили ближайший к ним район в Северном полуцилиндре Рамы и объявили войну на уничтожение соседям: симбиотической паре разумных инопланетян.